Vegetable moisturizing raw material from "Caatinga" Brazilian biome: safety and efficacy evaluations of O/W cosmetic emulsions containing Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing sodium acrylates/ Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside and 0.5% of extract were prepared. The extract was considered as non-irritating through skin irritant tests. The stability testing was carried out in different conditions for 90 days. The skin hydration was measured by capacitance measurement and transepidermal water loss using biophysical techniques. The results indicate that the formulation containing 0.5% of extract increased the hydration of the stratum corneum up to 5 h after application on the forearm. The transepidermal water loss was reduced when compared to the untreated area and placebo area. Therefore, we can conclude that the increased skin hydration and protection of barrier function can be attributed to the K. brasiliensis extract. This research presents a new raw material from the Brazilian Caatinga biome and shows its possible application in the development of cosmetic products.

Multiple emulsions containing amazon oil: açaí oil (Euterpe oleracea)

The aim of this work was to formulate O/W/O multiple emulsions containing açaí oil as a model system and to evaluate their physical stability and in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Multiple emulsions are complex dispersion systems, known also as, "emulsions of emulsions". These emulsion systems, have significant potential in the cosmetic industry. Euterpe oleracea Mart., Arecaceae, popularly known in Brazil as "açaí", is an economically important plant. Açaí oil has been used as antioxidant and as anti-inflammatory activities. The multiple emulsions were prepared using a two-step procedure. The investigated formulations were characterized and their stability over time was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated stability. O/W/O multiple emulsions containing the same concentration of sunscreens with and without açaí oil were evaluated by the International Sun Protection Factor Test Method. The samples containing 70 percent (w/w) of primary emulsion, 5 percent (w/w) PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, 10 percent (w/w) of açaí oil and 5 percent (w/w) of sucrose polybehenate have been found to be stable. The rheological measurements revealed that the samples exhibited non-Newtonian pseudoplastic flow behavior and thixotropy. To conclude, no statistical difference could be observed on the in vivo SPF to both multiple systems with or without açaí oil.

Emulsoes multiplas L/H/L: obtencao, controle da multiplicidade e estudos do poder oclusivo / Multiple emulsions O/W/O: obtention, control by the multiplicity and studies by the oclusive capacity

Emulsoes multiplas tem sido pesquisadas para utilizacao em produtos farmaceuticos, cosmeticos e alimentares. Tais emulsoes sao empregadas como sistemas de liberacao prolongada de principios ativos, os quais estarao contidos na fase mais interna e serao liberados numa velocidade controlada por sua habilidade em difundir atraves das varias fases atravessando as interfaces existentes. Isto permitira a protecao de substancias lipossoluveis. Emulsoes multiplas L/H/L foram estudadas em funcao dos valores de E.H.L., valores da fracao volumetrica (0L/H) e quantidades do tensoativo secundario. As emulsoes L/H/L sao obtidas usando emulsoes L/H tendo valores de E.H.L. iguais a 8,60, 9,46, 10,32 e 11,18, valores de fracao volumetrica de 0,15, 0,20, 0,25, 0,30 e 0,45. A quantidade de tensoativo secundario e variavel e o limite de concentracao para a obtencao de emulsoes multiplas L/H/L. O diametro dos globulos e variavel para os sistemas obtidos. O controle da multiplicidade foi realizado atraves de metodo de condutividade eletrica do sulfato de zinco (introduzido na fase aquosa intermediaria) apos um processo de dialise. A aplicacao cosmetica foi avaliada determinando o poder oclusivo de emulsoes L/H e L/H/L aplicadas em celulas de gelatina